The Japanese, especially those entrusted with direct contact with the general public, go to almost embarassing extremes of politeness, at least to Western eyes.
Take ticket controllers on trains, for example. From the super-fast and incredible Shinkansen (a veritable airplane without wings) to the humble local commuter train, the ticket controller, in a very smart uniform, will bow twice towards the travellers on entering the carriage, and announce in a polite tone what he is there for. On leaving the carriage, he will turn 180 degrees, and bow again twice towards the public. Ditto for the "trolley dollies" (they are invariably female, young and pretty) who ply the carriages with refreshments: again, very smartly turned out, they will bow twice on both entering and exiting the carriage. Can you imagine the equivalent ticket controller in that country of ultimate individualists, Italy? The Italian ticket collector will either wear a sullen expression, as if to say that it is beneath him to be "of service" to people he doesn't know, or be very officious, as if to intimate the power he holds over the paying public. Depending on his or her mood, he/she may also be brusque or mildly threatening.
Again, on trams or buses, the beautifully uniformed driver and/or conductor, will personally thank each and every passenger as they disembark the vehicle and pay their fares. It should be noted that all the people who conduct public transport (including taxis) will be wearing smart uniforms complete with military-style hats and white gloves (the latter sometimes complemented by anti-flu white face masks - not a few members of the public also wear them, giving a slightly disturbing feeling that you have reached an epidemic zone).
Japanese politeness does not stop at public transport or hotel lobbies, however. On entering even the humblest of Japanese fast-food joints, one is greeted by a chorus of Isshaiwamase! (Welcome!), belted out in unison by all the staff in the establishment. The same ritual happens on your leaving the premises, which makes a discreet exit well nigh impossible. If then you happen to go to even the humblest of Japanese restaurants, the person taking your order, and sometimes the chef himself, will escort you to the exit on leaving, and bow profusely at you at least a couple of times.
The same sort of bowing and elaborate greeting takes place among ordinary members of the public when meeting or parting company. But what is the origin of this attitude of formal respect which appears slightly servile and embarassing to the more brusque mores of us Westerners?
A neo-Darwinian would argue that this is a trait which is "naturally selected" when a population lives in overcrowded areas on limited land space. But this explanation is unsatisfactory, as other overcrowded communities turn to violence and unrest in similar natural environments.
An English friend of mine who first lived in Japan in his teens and eventually progressed to marrying a Japanese lady, told me that the formalised politeness and the utter orderliness of Japanese communal living is a defence mechanism to cope with an otherwise anarchic and violent temperament. The Japanese would then release their pent-up emotions by reading violent Manga comics or playing computer games in pachinko parlours. Interestingly, this theory has often been advanced to explain the English and German general behaviour (i.e. that their overt politeness and law-abiding nature hides a more sinister beastly nature).
Another theory brings the Japanese customary politeness back to historical causes to do with the rigid feudal system which survived until the Meiji Era of the mid-1860s. Whatever the explanation, it does take a very stoic temperament to put up with the incessant announcements delivered by Disneyesque squeaky female voices and jingles on public transport of any kind.
Finally, to explode another myth, the Japanese are not a boring lot: well behaved yes, but boring no way! Tram drivers show their anarchic streak by wearing sneakers or trainers instead of black polished shoes under their otherwise impeccable uniforms. In addition they delight in delivering long monologues in a husky, sexy voice whenever the tram/bus is leaving, arriving or en route from a stop...I amused myself in thinking that they are relaying their life stories to the public, or sharing their sexual fantasies!
The young females then sometimes sport "pussycat in boots" high heel boots above the knees, combined with short skirts (a very pleasing sight for yours truly) and the elderly women can score a point or two against any eccentric/batty English "old dear" that you care to mention!
The Japanese are still a mystery to me with their quirkiness after 18 days in the country: extremely polite, but never boring!
Posts
